Turns out, timing really is everything
While it may be all over your TikTok FYP, hair oiling is actually a ritual rooted in centuries of tradition across South Asian, Middle Eastern, and African cultures. From weekly scalp massages with amla oil in India to the use of argan and castor oils in Moroccan and Caribbean routines, pre-wash oiling has long been a cornerstone of holistic hair care.
Now, it’s finally making its way into mainstream Western routines, not as a “hack,” but as a smart, science-backed step. Done right, pre-wash oiling can help protect against shampoo-induced dryness, reduce breakage, and keep the scalp nourished. And no, it doesn’t mean walking around with greasy roots or skipping wash day.
If your hair’s been feeling parched, fragile, or just generally uncooperative, oiling before you shampoo might be the missing piece. Here's how to get it right—and why it’s worth the extra step.
First: Why oil before you wash?
When it comes to hair care, oiling before washing isn’t just a feel-good ritual; it’s a practical, protective step backed by both ancient wisdom and modern science.
Here’s what happens every time you shampoo: your hair loses a bit of its natural lipid layer. This outer layer keeps strands flexible, shiny, and strong, but surfactants in shampoo (even the gentle ones) can strip it away. That’s especially true if you’re washing frequently or dealing with dry, brittle, or chemically processed hair.
Pre-wash oiling helps prevent that. Certain oils—like coconut, argan, and sunflower—can penetrate the hair shaft, filling in structural gaps and forming a light barrier around the cuticle. This reduces the amount of water your hair absorbs during washing, which in turn minimises swelling, frizz, and protein loss. Think of it like priming your hair before a paint job: it smooths the surface and protects what’s underneath.
As we’ve established, the practice isn’t new. In Ayurveda and other traditional systems, pre-wash oiling was used not only to nourish the scalp, but to strengthen hair and promote growth over time. Now, those same benefits are being confirmed by dermatologists and trichologists alike, especially when it comes to reducing hygral fatigue (damage caused by hair repeatedly swelling and drying).
When should I oil my hair?
If you’re wondering when should I oil my hair, the answer depends on your hair type, lifestyle, and goals. There’s no single rule, but there are a few smart guidelines to follow.
How long before washing?
The ideal window is anywhere from 30 minutes to overnight. If your hair tends to get greasy or weighed down easily, apply oil 30–60 minutes before shampooing. On the other hand, if you’re treating very dry or damaged strands, an overnight oil treatment (with your hair loosely tied and protected with a silk scarf or pillowcase) allows for deeper penetration.
How often should you oil?
– Dry, curly, or textured hair: 1–2 times per week to retain moisture and reduce breakage.
– Oily or fine hair: Once every 10–14 days. Stick to lighter oils and shorter treatments.
– Color-treated or damaged hair: Once a week is ideal. Choose oils that protect protein and reduce hygral fatigue.
Timing your oiling routine around your wash days is key—pre-wash is where the magic happens. Post-wash oiling can sometimes interfere with volume or leave residue, especially on fine hair.
Experiment to find what works for your hair’s needs and your schedule. The goal isn’t perfection; it’s consistency. And when you tailor your oiling routine to your hair type and washing habits, you’ll start to see (and feel) the difference.
How to choose the right oil for your hair type
Choosing the right oil comes down to understanding your hair’s unique needs. Hair type isn’t just a case of straight or curly; texture, porosity, and scalp condition also come into play. The curl type system (from 1A to 4C) offers a rough guide, but things like density, dryness, and whether your scalp tends to get oily also play a role.
Coconut oil
Best for: Thick, curly, or coily hair (Types 3B–4C)
Rich in fatty acids, coconut oil penetrates the hair shaft and protects against protein loss. Avoid if your hair is fine or prone to buildup, as it can be too heavy.
Argan oil
Best for: Most hair types, especially dry or colour-treated
Packed with antioxidants and vitamin E, argan oil smooths frizz and adds shine without weighing hair down. Great for softening ends and taming flyaways as it seals the cuticles.
Almond oil
Best for: Dry, damaged, or dull hair
Almond oil is an emollient, which means it can fill in gaps in your hair at a cellular level. This contributes to smoother, softer hair over time (you may even notice your hair is easier to comb through and style, too).
Jojoba oil
Best for: Oily scalps or fine hair
Structurally similar to sebum, jojoba oil balances the scalp without clogging follicles. Perfect if you want hydration without heaviness.
Rosemary oil
Best for: Thinning hair, slow-growing hair, or anyone experiencing shedding
Known for its circulation-boosting and anti-inflammatory properties, rosemary oil has been shown in some studies to support hair growth and reduce shedding, comparable to minoxidil over time. Don’t forget to use it diluted with a carrier oil and massage it into the scalp before you wash for best results.
Remember, no oil is universally perfect. Try one or two that match your hair’s characteristics and see how your strands respond. Think of oiling as a conversation with your hair: the more you listen, the better your routine becomes.
The perfect pre-wash oiling routine
A good hair oiling routine isn’t about slathering your strands and hoping for the best. You need to be intentional with how (and where) you apply the oil. Here’s how it’s done:
1. Start with dry, detangled hair
Oiling works best when your hair is dry and tangle-free. Gently comb through to prevent breakage and ensure even application.
2. Warm a small amount of oil
Depending on your hair length and thickness, use 1–3 tablespoons. Warm it slightly in your palms or a bowl to enhance absorption.
3. Focus on your scalp first
Using your fingertips, massage the oil directly into your scalp in circular motions. This stimulates blood flow and helps the oil reach the follicles, especially if you're using rosemary or other growth-focused oils.
4. Work it through the lengths
Apply the remaining oil through the mid-lengths and ends, which tend to be the driest. Use a “prayer hands” motion to evenly coat without tugging.
5. Massage for 5–10 minutes
Don’t rush this step. A slow, firm massage with a scalp massager helps the oil penetrate, relaxes tension, and improves overall scalp health.
6. Leave it in for at least 30 minutes
For a deeper treatment, leave it overnight (just protect your pillow). Wrap your hair in a loose braid or a microfiber towel to reduce friction while you sleep.
7. Wash it out properly
Use a hydrating shampoo to cleanse without stripping away all the oil. Follow with a rich, replenishing conditioner to seal in moisture. This step is crucial—neglecting it can lead to product build-up and dull strands.
Oiling is only as good as the routine that follows. Pair your treatment with a moisture-focused wash day, and you’ll see the benefits build over time: smoother strands, stronger roots, and a scalp that stays happy between washes.
Don’t make these mistakes…
Hair oiling can work wonders, but only if you do it right. These common mistakes can undo all that nourishing goodness.
✗ Thinking more oil = more results
Drenching your hair might feel luxurious, but using too much oil can make it harder to wash out, leading to greasy buildup. A few tablespoons go a long way.
✗ Leaving it in for too long
Overnight is fine, but don’t let it linger for days. Extended exposure can clog your scalp and attract dirt, especially if you're using heavier oils like coconut.
✗ Using the wrong oil for your hair type
As we’ve covered above, specific oils complement specific hair types. If your hair is fine or your scalp gets oily fast, avoid heavier oils that can weigh you down or cause breakouts.
✗ Skipping the double shampoo
One gentle cleanse usually isn’t enough to lift all the oil. If you don’t wash thoroughly, you’ll be left with limp, dull hair… and possibly a flaky scalp.
Avoid these slip-ups, and your hair oil routine will start feeling like a ritual that works.
The long-term benefits of hair oiling
When done consistently, pre-wash oiling becomes a long-game strategy for stronger, healthier hair.
It improves your hair’s elasticity, meaning fewer snapped strands during brushing or styling. Oils rich in fatty acids and antioxidants also strengthen the hair shaft, reducing breakage and promoting shine from root to tip. Over time, your hair becomes softer, smoother, and more resilient to environmental stressors.
But it’s not just about the strands. Your scalp gets in on the benefits, too. Regular massage helps stimulate blood flow, supports follicle function, and keeps dryness or flakiness in check.
There’s also something therapeutic about taking time to care for your scalp. Oiling encourages you to slow down, check in with your body, and build a relationship with your hair that goes beyond the surface. It’s a small act of self-care—with BIG rewards.
Start hair oiling today and reap the benefits
A pre-wash oiling routine isn’t just a beauty hack; it’s a proven way to strengthen strands, support your scalp, and give your hair the TLC it’s been missing.
From choosing the right oil to mastering the massage, small tweaks can make a big difference over time. Whether you’re dealing with dryness, dullness, or just want to give your hair a weekly reset, pre-wash oiling is a ritual worth sticking to.
For more simple, effective hair care habits, check out the LifeTYME blog—where we break down the science and the styling, strand by strand.
